The chairs in neuralgic positions in the traditional fashion houses continues. After just over a week ago Natacha Ramsay-Levi was presented as the new chief designer at Cloe, another luxury Paris label is now turning to new faces in its creative department.
According to Riccardo Tisci, who gave up his job as creative director at Givenchy in January, will soon be joining Versace. Whether and when he will actually take up a new position there is still completely open. What is certain, however, is that Givenchy has been looking for a replacement for Tisci. According to the company belonging to the luxury goods group LVMH, Clare Waight Keller is to be hired as the new creative director.
Wright Keller, who already worked as a designer for Chloe, is following in her new job in big footsteps. For example, industry figures such as John Galliano, Alexander McQueen and Julien Macdonald already held the same position for Givenchy. At the same time, she is only the second woman to artistically manage a fashion brand of LVMH. Before her only Maria Grazia Chiuri held a similar position with Christian Dior.
Givenchy boss Philippe Fortunato meanwhile places high hopes in his new creative director. In a first statement, Fortunato said he was convinced that Wright Keller would be able to “unleash the full potential of the brand.” This is remarkable in that Tisci’s predecessor did not manage to translate Givenchy’s style into the present and continue to successfully place it on the market – despite Tisci’s brand in one of the US rapper scene and Hollywood celebrities had placed certain environment.
His pronounced sense of sportiness, graphic design elements and modern pop-optics made Tisci the darling of the Instagram generation between Beonce and Kim Kardashian – a world in which the brand probably no longer wants to position itself.
With Wright Keller, the Givenchy bosses have now found a chief designer, which stylistically represents a hard break to Tisci. Loud, gaudy celebrity hysteria and social media narcissism are rather alien to her, she prefers the soft tones – both linguistically and stylistically in her designs. The Britin stands for friendly-reserved cuts and muted colours, for the great art of beautiful monochrome.
Now Wright Keller Givenchy back to the original line Hubert de Givenchys back, who founded the label in 1952. In the early years, great personalities such as Audrey Hepburn or Jackie Kennedy stood for Givenchy. Therefore, the goal seems to be to reclaim this aesthetics and validity again. After all, no one will write the sentence in 30 years. “The brand’s strongest personalities included celebrities such as Kim Kardashian.”